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The Guge Kingdom was an ancient civilization that thrived in Western Tibet, centered in present-day Zanda County, Ngari Prefecture, Tibet Autonomous Region. Despite the barren and eroded landscape, Guge emerged as an important hub along the trade route between India and Tibet. Among the most significant remnants of Guge are the Tholing Monastery and Tsaparang, the former capital of Gege Kingdom. When people mention the Guge Kingdom, they usually refer to Tsaparang.

Tholing Monastery, once a significant center of Tibetan Buddhism, now serves as an adjunct to the town. Tsaparang, a 9th-century fortress dramatically carved into a towering ridge, is located in the valley between the Gangdese Mountains and the Himalayas, about 18 km west of Zanda. These sites sit in the valley of the Langchen Tsangpo (Sutlej River), known as the "Elephant River," which originates west of Lake Mansarovar, flowing into Ladakh and Pakistan.

In History

The Guge Kingdom, which can be traced back to the Zhang Zhung (Shangshung) Kingdom, was founded in the 10th century AD after the collapse of the Tubo Kingdom in the 9th century. It was established by Kyide Nyimagon, the great-grandson of Langdarma, the last monarch of the Tibetan Empire. Following the fall of the empire, Kyide Nyimagon led his followers to Ngari and founded the Guge Kingdom, which went on to dominate western Tibet for over six centuries under 16 hereditary kings, until its decline in the 17th century.

By the 10th century, the Great Guge King Yeshe-Ö (947–1024) played a pivotal role in promoting Buddhist exchanges between India and Tibet. At that time, Guge, situated along the Silk Road, had already developed into a prosperous trade hub with a thriving population. Yeshe-Ö funded the construction of many Buddhist temples, including the renowned Tholing Monastery and Tabo Monastery. He also sponsored young monks to study in India, and after 17 years, Rinchen Zangpo returned to Tibet, translating Sanskrit Buddhist texts and further advancing Buddhism in the region.

a mural of Guge Kingdom
A mural at the ruin of Guge Kingdom

In 1042, the renowned Indian Buddhist monk Atiśa was invited to Ngari to spread Buddhist teachings, transforming the area into a center for the revival of Buddhism.

However, by the mid-17th century, internal conflicts and Ladakhi invasions led to the downfall of the Guge Kingdom. The king’s brother, a devout Buddhist, invited Ladakhi forces to attack Tsaparang Palace due to an ongoing anti-Buddhist movement within the kingdom. After its fall, Guge briefly became part of Ladakh (present-day Kashmir) before being reclaimed by the Tibetan local government, led by the Dalai Lama.

Despite the massacres and plundering caused by war, the Guge civilization, which once numbered around 100,000 people, was not entirely erased. However, the kingdom’s sudden disappearance remains one of history’s great mysteries.

The Unique Structure of Guge Kingdom

According to the structure of Guge Kingdom ruins, there are more than 300 houses, 400 temples, 28 stupas, 58 watchtowers, 4 tunnels, 11 granaries, and nearly 1000 caves. The superstructure is the royal palace, followed by the military office and guarded barracks. Next, some temples and finally there is the civilian residence. It also reflects the rigid hierarchy. Even in outlying areas, there are besieged city walls, towers at the four corners, and some temples and palaces with exquisite frescos. The most surprising part is that one has to get through a palace gate in a tunnel to go to the top, which makes the palace easy to defend and difficult to attack.

Tsaparang
View of Tsaparang

What to See at the Ruins of Guge Kingdom?

The main highlights of the Guge Kingdom ruins include the palace district, temple district, and murals.

Palace District
The palace district of the Guge Kingdom is primarily located in the southeastern part of the mountaintop and consists of 56 buildings, mostly single-story structures, with some reaching two or three stories. To the west of the royal palace, there is a 200-square-meter assembly hall, though only its walls remain today. In the northern part of the mountaintop, a tunnel-like structure known as the "Winter Palace" winds down the mountain. This complex includes underground rooms, observation holes, and small windows, showcasing a sophisticated architectural design.    

Temple District
The temple district was the religious and architectural core of the Guge Kingdom, with six surviving temples. Notable structures include the Mandala Hall at the mountaintop, and the Red Temple, White Temple, Great Vajra Hall, and Tara Hall on the slopes. These temples, which remain prominent landmarks, house numerous murals and sculptures, reflecting the kingdom’s deep Buddhist culture and artistic achievements.

Tsaparang
Mandala Hall at the mountain top.

Murals
The temples of the Guge Kingdom contain a vast collection of murals, with those in the Red Temple and White Temple being particularly exquisite. The mural themes include various Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, Taras, Dharma protectors, eminent monks, as well as historical depictions like the Tibetan emperors' lineage, Guge kings worshiping Buddha, and the life story of Shakyamuni. These murals are vividly colored, well-preserved, and hold immense artistic value.

Other Sites
Beyond the palace and temple districts, the Guge ruins also feature notable sites such as the Corpse Cave. Located beneath a northern hillside, this cave is said to have been a burial site when the kingdom fell. It is rumored that the cave still emits a strong odor of decay, and visitors are not advised to go there without wearing masks.

How to Get to the Guge Kingdom?

Guge Kingdom is located in Zanda County, Ngari Prefecture, surrounded by a large-scale soil forest not far from Mount Kailash for 230km. Ngari is a very far away place, no matter whether you are getting there from Lhasa, Kathmandu, or anywhere else. Currently, there are two ways: by road or by plane.

Driving to Ngari: Driving to Ngari from Lhasa is a popular way for most tourists as it's a great sightseeing journey. There is a distance of 1,450km westwards from Lhasa. You will pass through many major tourist attractions in Tibet, like Yamdrok Lake, Karola Glacier, Gyantse, Shigatse, Mt.Everest, Zanda Earth Forest, etc. By the way, it’s the most comfortable and cost-effective way to adopt the ascending altitude gradually.

Zanda Earth Forest
See spectacular earth forest landscapes at Zanda

Flying to Ngari: Nowadays, it’s possible for travelers with tight schedules to take flights to Nagri. There are flights between Lhasa and Ngari with a duration of 2 hours. You can also travel from Urumqi to Ngari by flight with a stopover at Kashgar. The whole journey takes about 4 hours. After you arrive at Ngari Gunsa Airport, the distance is 180km, and it takes about 3.5 hours to drive. If you are departing from Kathmandu, you can fly to Lhasa first, then take another plane to Ngari.

Travel Tips

  1. Take precautions of bringing enough thick clothes. The temperature varies greatly between day and night. During the daytime, the temperature may reach up to 10 or even 20 degrees but at night the temperature drops to several degrees below zero or even lower.
  2. Nagri is a high-altitude region, with an average altitude of 4,500m. The climate here is dry and the ultraviolet radiation is very strong. Please beware of altitude sickness and skincare.
  3. On the way to the ruins of Guge Kingdom, the diet along the way is simple but expensive. You may prepare some snacks in advance.
  4. The best time to visit Ngari is May, June, September and early October. At Guge Kingdom, you can witness different views at different times of a single day.
  5. Around the Guge Kingdom, you can also visit Zanda Earth Forest (20km away), Tholing Monastery (18km away) and Khyung Lung Dngul Mkhar (220km away).

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