Chimi Lhakhang

Chimi Lhakhang Monastery stands on a round hillock beside the Puna Tsang Chhu River in the Punakha District of Bhutan. It is a sacred place for fertility blessings in Bhutan, and the surrounding scenery is beautiful. This temple was built in 1499 by the 14th Drukpa hierarch, Ngawang Choegyel, to commemorate his cousin Drukpa Kunley. It is said that anyone who wants to become pregnant will get pregnant shortly after visiting it, and the reason for this is still a mystery.

Drukpa Kunley  

Drukpa Kunley was born in Ralung Monastery in Tibet, China, which is also the ancestral temple of the Drukpa Kagyu sect. According to Bhutanese mythology, Bhutan was once haunted by demons, and plague and death enveloped the people here. At this time, Drukpa Kunley used magic thunderbolt wisdom, which refers to the phallus, regarded with great power, to whip and drive away the demons. Only then could the land of Bhutan continue to thrive and reproduce. As a respected religious figure in Bhutan, Drukpa Kunley is called a crazy saint. The doctrine he advocates is actually wine, meat and beauty. He believes that physical relationships can be a path to enlightenment, so his preaching is often related to sex. He gradually evolved into a representative of strong fertility.

According to religious legend, Lama Drukpa Kunley once described the hillock where the fertility temple stands as resembling the breast of a woman, with the temple located at the 'nipple' of the hilltop. Legend has it that Drukpa Kunley subdued a demon at Dochula Pass who had taken the form of a dog and then buried the demon in a rock near where the pagoda now stands. The term 'Chimi' in Bhutanese means 'No Dog,' signifying the wish that such a demon will never appear again.

The Buddha Hall

The yellow-roofed Chimi Lhakhang is located on a small hill near Sopsokha village in the Punakha District. The monastery is modest, consisting of only one courtyard and a small Buddha hall. In the center of the temple is a statue of Sakyamuni, and on the right is a small statue of Drukpa Kunley, depicted in a naked form with exaggerated and deformed genitalia. Additionally, murals inside the hall narrate the life story of Drukpa Kunley. In many murals, Drukpa Kunley is shown with his hand on one side of his ear, which means listening to the voices of believers. Photography is not allowed inside the monastery, but the surrounding countryside offers stunning scenery, perfect for capturing memories.

The Temple of Fertility

If you make a small offering, the monks here will use bone and wooden carvings representing Drukpa Kunley's genitalia (ritual instruments with 600 years of history) to gently tap worshippers on the head as a blessing. Women who want to have a child come here to pray to this saint and then carry a wooden phallus around the temple three times. It is said to be very effective. Many women sent photos of themselves and their children to the temple, and the monks saved these photos in albums as proof of the temple's magic. Locals also bring their newborns here to be named. For many people, Chimi Lhakhang is a revered and blessed space.

Phallus Symbol

In the village of Sopsoka, near the monastery, all the houses have paintings of phalluses on their facades. The flying phallus patterns seen on the exterior walls of houses and the phallus models hanging under the eaves are symbols of this "crazy saint" Lama, which people believe can ward off evils. Painting phalluses on the wall is very protective; it can drive away evil spirits and protect the home.

Later, people made phalluses for worship, and these phalluses were symbols of Drukpa Kunley. It should be noted that Bhutanese people believe that flying phalluses are like vajra pestles that can whip mountain demons and have a deterrent effect. It is a pure belief. It is completely different from the primitive genital worship in India. It can protect people from evil spirits.

How to Get to Chimi Lhakhang?

Sopsokha Village is about 75km from Thimphu and 10km from Punakha. From Sopsokha, it takes about 20 minutes to walk through the fields to get to Chimi Lhakhang. You can see picturesque rice fields and traditional Bhutanese houses. If you come in spring(March to May) and autumn (September to November), you can see lush and green surrounding scenery. The trail is fairly flat, and the trail offers visitors a peaceful journey through the Bhutanese countryside.

Conclusion

Chimi Lhakhang is one of the most popular attractions in Bhutan for both foreign tourists and Bhutanese pilgrims. While the temple is known for its fertility blessings, it is also a place of great peace and tranquility. You can admire the exquisite architecture and stunning views of the surrounding valley.